streetscape: Everett and Olympia

Labor Day weekend we found ourselves along two very different waterfronts, Everett to the north of Seattle, and Olympia to the south.

Everett's downtown was walkable but rather lifeless. It frustrated any attempt to access the waterfront by walking. The jetty, Hat Island and Whidbey Island lay just beyond in Possession Sound: a stunning gateway to the San Juan Islands. But there's only so much you can do with a large military complex at your front door.

Signs abound for a Sunday farmer's market but it turns out it lies far to the north, and is only accessible by car. You never actually see the water here because the restaurants crowd the view and the market is a small strip of canopies near the road. Once you get there a confusing array of parking lots ensures you do plenty of walking, but it's through a myriad of parking lots for waterfront businesses. Ironically, the historic ship "Equator" sits alone, rotten but dry in its own covered parking stall.

The "Equator", abandoned in 1956

The "Equator" first structure to be placed on the Everett Historic Register

Rotting hull of the "Equator", built in 1888

The "Equator" carried Robert Louis Stevenson (author of Treasure Island and Kidnapped), second from left, through the islands of Micronesia. All photos of "Equator" courtesy of EverettSource.com.

View of battleship in Everett's harbor

There are signs of new life in the area between Everett's downtown and waterfront: five and six storey apartment buildings which all appear to be the work of the same brave developer.

Abandoned man in Everett, new apartments in left background

Everett's working waterfront--military base, railroad and industry--walkable from downtown, but fenced off to the public.

Everett's waterfront one and only (and sadly empty) Anchor Cafe

The Spar Cafe, where we had lunch in Olympia. One of many McMenamin Brothers projects to breathe new life into old Main Street buildings throughout the northwest.

Olympia, on the other hand, has never had to deal with hulking gray battle ships (the one sheltering in Everett's waters was impressive)...and therefore is gentler, guiding you from downtown along one of its several inlets, past a beautiful and tidy marina to the right, and fields of logs and dry docked hulls on the left. There is a burgeoning museum complex down there. A peaceful setting, without any commercial intrusion. It turns out that the restaurants are on the west bay of Budd Inlet, and we were on the east bay. Although it was peaceful, we missed the Tugboat Races that occur every Labor Day on the west bay at Percival Landing. With all the cafes left to discover downtown, a quick walk away, we were spoiled for choice. Within a very small area you could get a hot cuppa joe at New Moon Coop Cafe, C & D, Olympia Coffee Roasting, Sizizis, Burial Grounds, Batdorf and Bronson, Dancing Goat Espresso, Darby's Cafe, Caffe Vita, Traditions Cafe, Cafe Via, Budd Bay Cafe, Volcano Vapor Cafe ohh--and one Starbucks!